Ethical meets everyday luxury, with Eco Intimates

Eco Intimates’ classic styles, designed to bring some luxury to everyday, comfy underwear. Image via Eco Intimates.

It’s no secret I don’t buy a lot of garments brand new anymore, opting instead for secondhand as much as possible.

But when it comes to underwear, I really enjoy finding local, ethical businesses creating sustainable pieces using natural fabrics - pieces I can feel good about buying new, knowing the makers were treated fairly and the garments won’t be around for years after I’ve finished with them!

It’s great to see so many ethical, organic, conscious underwear companies springing up, giving us comfy, affordable alternatives to the mass-produced or synthetic versions we’re used to seeing in stores.

But it’s not often you find an intimates label that combines eco-cred with comfort AND luxury, adding that special something that speaks to a bygone era of classic lingerie made to last.

meet Eco Intimates.

Formerly named Madonna Bain Eco Intimates, founder and designer Madonna Bain graciously welcomed me into her Byron Bay home studio, sharing her design and making space as well as a behind-the-scenes in growing a small, ethical label.

Eco Intimates founder and designer Madonna Bain in her Byron Bay home studio.

Madonna at her pattern-making table.

With a long-time love of vintage lingerie, it wasn’t until after having kids that Madonna finally admitted she wanted to be a fashion designer, going on to find her niche.

“My journey into design started with sewing. I was given a sewing machine by my grandmother when I was 16 and I sewed a lot in those early days,” Madonna says.

“I made hats and homewares, then I sold them at the local markets. Then after I had my daughters, I became obsessed with floral, liberty-style prints and made both little girl’s and women’s cotton frocks! I was self-taught, so really I just made it up as I went along!

“By the time my daughters were going to school and I was ready to focus more on my career, that was the first time I realised that this was more than just a hobby and admitted to myself that I really wanted to be a fashion designer.

“So, I enrolled in fashion school and through the process I really found my passion and actually had a ball at college.

“Inspired by my love of vintage lingerie, I started designing an organic cotton underwear range during my final year and then once I graduated, I was eager to sell at the local markets because it was such a big part of the creative culture here [in Byron Bay] to have a market stall.

“People really responded to the designs and I knew I’d created something that had real potential. But, I knew if I had a chance of launching it as a real and credible business, it made sense to find a niche. I wanted to find a gap in the clothing market, something women wanted but couldn’t find, and so the concept for Eco Intimates was born.”

Finding a gap for eco-luxe lingerie

Before launching the brand in 2008 there weren’t many eco designers making lingerie, so Madonna took the plunge to fill the gap in Australia.

“I had this favourite bra, it was broderie anglaise and the style reminded me of the vintage style pieces I collected. This style of lingerie was rare to find, as nearly everything in the stores were synthetic lace,” Madonna says.

 “I had this idea to make a whole line of natural fibre lingerie, which wasn’t plain or basic but luxurious and with feminine detailing - my idea of heaven!

 “I aimed to create beautifully made, almost heirloom pieces, with quality workmanship, in natural fabrics. But also I wanted to create pieces you also feel comfortable in, a combination which can be hard to find.”

My Eco Intimates Isabella and Suzette Knickers made from organic cotton and synthetic lace. I visited designer and founder Madonna Bain in her Byron Bay home studio.

Initially strict in using only natural materials, Madonna’s early pieces were and still are centred around organic cotton, but the brand’s focus is on durability; creating pieces that are truly wearable, and a real competitor in the luxury as well as the cotton underwear markets.

“For me, day-to-day I wanted to wear comfortable, practical, cotton undies, yet I also wanted them to feel a little special and flattering too. So my first designs were based around my own favourite cuts and adding detailing like lace panels, pleating and shirring. I created styles that are comfy, that you’d want to wear everyday but were also really pretty,” Madonna explains.

“I loved using organic cotton right from the start. Cotton as a fibre is so superior, yet can be really environmentally damaging and industrially processed. So I liked that organic cotton is not only safer and less toxic than conventional cotton, but it is also so much softer and luxurious feeling.

“At the time, ‘eco’ meant to me ‘natural and environmental friendly’ and for the first few years of my brand I tried to keep my designs as synthetic-free and as natural as possible, but I found limits with comfort and fit of each garment.

“For Eco Intimates the most important thing is to create comfortable garments that you feel beautiful in, but also that will stand the test of time. The garments are designed to be a superior option to the conventional cotton styles we all love. If people want to wear cotton, I want them to choose Eco Intimates.”

going Offshore for growth

Madonna talked about the drawbacks of continuing to make in Australia while trying to grow a small label.

“I started off producing my pieces locally, but I soon found it was difficult to find the craftsmanship that is required for lingerie,”Madonna says.

Eco Intimates garments hanging in Madonna’s home studio.

“Manufacturing tends to fall into two categories, fashion or swim, where lingerie sort of falls in-between these and requires specialist skills and machinists.

“Australia had more lingerie made here in the early 1980’s and 90’s, but when the major brands went offshore a lot of these factories closed. Many of those sewers continued to work from home and offer ‘piece’ work, but understandably the pricing is high, which can be an expensive way to produce.

“There are a few medium-sized factories in our major cities, but they are in demand, and as a start-up business it’s hard to get your foot in the door.

“Unfortunately, there are also many ‘sweat shop’ factories here in Oz, so of course I didn’t want to use them!”

“So, from the advice of a fellow small-scale designer, I started making some of my pieces in Indonesia in 2013, and it has been a natural transition to make more there as Eco Intimates grew.

 “At first, I worked with a tailor, who had a home-based husband and wife team sewing for him. I loved the idea of my pieces being made at home, where families can adjust their lifestyle around their income, or the other way around.

“As the business has grown however,  I've found quality and scaling difficult to manage with that kind of setup. So now I work with a small ethical factory, a business that offers their workers benefits, insurance, a safe clean place to work and suitable working hours.”

One reality that isn’t always talked about when making garments offshore - even for eco labels - is the single-used plastic packaging that comes back with it.

When the garments first arrived from Indonesia, they were all wrapped in plastic, and while this irked Madonna she admits it does serve a purpose in preserving and protecting the garments before they’re sold. She would get the sizes grouped together in one bag, rather than individually, and take the bags back to Bali with her to reuse for storage. Now compostable bags are available, which is a huge environmental step.

 “We still try to reduce the amount we use as they are still single use,” Madonna says.

 Madonna continues to make some custom pieces in her home studio, like the Stella Bralette, but as the business grows she is focussed on design and product development, as everything is designed by her in-house.

The Eco Intimates Florence Robe - made to order. Image via Eco Intimates

After more than 10 years as a hobby side-hustle, Madonna quit her job in January last year to really pursue her business’ growth.

So what’s next for Eco Intimates?

“We embrace being a small boutique brand, but we want to grow our range, so we are creating new products and collections all the time, inspired by real women and inclusive of many female shapes and sizes. I want to offer pieces women feel truly beautiful in, not only for every day wear, but on all occasions,” Madonna says.

“As a business, we also want to continue to dig deeper into reducing our carbon footprint and be making the best choices possible as we grow.”

Keep an eye on this growing eco-luxe label!